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At Basel and during the weeks since, we’ve seen previews of some great new collections that will be launched in Vegas this month. In our quest to bring you the best of the new as soon as possible, we are previewing some of the soon-to-be-hot new collections and pieces that you won’t want to miss at the shows. And for the 20,000 jewelers who don’t go to Vegas each year, this will serve as a travel-free sneak peek of the new season. And don’t forget, we’ll bring you even more great new collections and new designs in our August 2007 issue, the annual holiday buying guide.

Pendants from the new monogram collection by F.R. Hueb, (55) (34) 3333-2466.
Chalcedony and enamel ring and moonstone, sapphire, and diamond earrings

Tears of Joy

Shaun Leane’s new “Captured Tears” collection features a new signature cut in a soft curved teardrop shape, created exclusively for the designer by Signity. As always, Leane’s designs unify opposites. The muted colors of chalcedony and moonstone, perfectly suited to the softness of the shape, play off against spiky, almost Victorian gothic settings. Accents are often black or blue, including black diamonds, blue enamel, and blue sapphire. The new collection includes bold rings and delicate earrings and pendants.

Chalcedony and enamel ring and moonstone, sapphire, and diamond earrings by Shaun Leane, suggeasted retail $6,500 and $14,730, (44) (207) 405-4773


Cartier's Roundabout

With its cachet firmly established with iconic styles in tank, square, and tonneau watches, Cartier is adding a new core product line to its round watch offerings with its new “Ballon Bleu.” The softly rounded watch with its distinctive sapphire cabochon crown that is incorporated into the case is available in 19 men’s and women’s versions and in three sizes: 42, 36.5, and 28.5 millimeters. Suggested retail prices range from $4,950 to $46,000. It’s the brand’s biggest rollout of a new style since the launch of the highly successful Santos.

“Ballon Bleu” 18k yellow gold watch from Cartier, (800) CARTIER.

18k gold jewelry collections

A New Caressa

The Caressa brand from Taché is being relaunched as a couture jewelry brand for women self-purchasers. The new brand ambassador will be Leven Rambin, a star of “All My Children.” Caressa’s two new 18k gold jewelry collections, “Georgia” and “Lady Brooke,” are inspired by women role models from the 18th and 19th century. The Georgia collection features roses and Lady Brooke is delicate and lacey, dripping with diamonds from a silk or satin and organza cord. “Women today are not as simple as we used to pretend to be. We want to do it all, have a successful career, keep up with the fashion trends, and have a loving relationship with family. We tried to capture this in our collections. The roses are beautifully deep with many folds. The lace is layered with delicate, unique, and feminine features,” says Kendra Bridel Weinman of Caressa. The new campaign will appear in Vogue and W.

Leven Rambin wears the new “Georgia” collection by Caressa, (718) 707-7931.

Tourmaline and turquoise rings

Betting on Bacall

Bacall, a new line of jewelry licensed by film legend Lauren Bacall, will combine 1940s Hollywood glamour with affordable price points. The collection will be manufactured and marketed by Weinman Bros., a family business previously known for the “Generations 1912” collection of antique reproduction jewelry. “I’ve always loved the thought of jewelry as art and there is nothing like the feeling of wearing something beautiful,” Bacall says. Styles will be available in 18k or 14k gold, set with topaz from Signity, white sapphire, or diamond with a variety of colored gemstones. Retail price points range from $300 to $3,500. The collection will be supported by displays, brochures, a co-op program, and consumer advertising.

Tourmaline and turquoise rings from the Bacall collection from Weinman Bros., (212) 695-8116. Photos by Christony.

18k gold color, a combination of rose and yellow golds jewelry

Brown Bound

Charriol, which is known for its steel cable first introduced in 1983, has a new twist on its twisted cable jewelry styles. The new “Celtique” collection marks a departure for the brand in several ways. Although Charriol introduced a black steel collection in 2003, the Celtique collection features an unusual new steel color: bronze, a rich brown-like tone. To complement the bronze color, Charriol is featuring its own warm 18k gold color, a combination of rose and yellow golds. Intricate scrolls and granulation create a historical reference that melds with Celtique’s modern, everyday wear, lifestyle point of view. Suggested retails range from $2,000 to $5,000.

“Celtique” collection in 18k rose and yellow gold combination with bronze steel from Charriol, (877) 872-0172.

18k white and yellow gold jewelry

Inner Goddess

Mary Margrill could be considered as much a philosopher as a designer. “I discover new worlds of possibility,” says Margrill, who introduces her first 18k white and yellow gold jewelry this month. A devotee of history and spirituality, Margrill combines elements from yoga, numerology, and talismans from ancient cultures in Egypt, Asia, Tibet, and more. “I fuse them together to channel the one concept of feminine energy,” she says, pointing out an example like her cartouche pendant that combines symbols of the Egyptian goddess, Isis, Lakshmi, a Hindi goddess of abundance, and Venus, the Roman goddess of love. Suggested retails range from $600 to $10,000.

Cartouche 18k gold pendant from the “Daae” collection from M2 by Mary Margrill, (646) 526-8803.


Italian Roses

Marco Bicego has added rose cut diamonds to the smooth rounded bean shapes in 18k gold that are the designer’s signature. Retailers report the Marco Bicego brand has been selling particularly well for the past year and this new addition to the collection should be irresistible to collectors. The new “Eclisse” collection is a surprisingly affordable combination of fashionable gold silhouettes with couldn’t-be-more sizzling rose cut diamonds. Retail price points range from $630 for a stackable single rose cut diamond ring to $2,960 for Eclisse earrings to $25,220 for the multi-strand Eclisse necklace.

Multi-strand “Eclisse” necklace by Marco Bicego, suggested retail $25,220, (415) 249-3800.


Spin on Color

The new “Fairytale” collection from Yael Designs features colorful gemstones that spin in their settings. The line of rings, pendants, earrings, and bracelets combines delicate 18k white gold and diamond settings with the bright and playful gemstones, often in colorful combinations. The styles feature citrine, peridot, blue topaz, and diamonds. Suggested retails range from $400 to $5,000. To allow the gems to spin, each stone is drilled and also held securely under the culet. “The look is three times the value, which makes it great for middle to high-end stores. We are offering exclusivity and the minimum order is $5,000,” says designer Yehouda Saketkhou of Yael Diamonds.

“Fairytale” collection ring by Yael Designs, (415) 989-9235.

pendant and ring

Reflecting Gems

“Reincarnation,” a new patent-pending collection from Rosen Block, takes colorful sapphires and diamonds and reflects them with a pyramid of rock crystal, mirroring them many times over. “The result is infinitely more impressive-looking jewels,” says Ron Rosen. Suggested retail prices range from $715 to $1,465. The new setting is used in 18k gold and sterling silver styles the designer describes as “a new, contemporary version of Art Deco.”

“Reincarnation” pendant and ring by Rosen Block Design, suggested retail $1,465 and $990, (800) 856-0633.

sterling silver Maltese cross ring with black and white diamonds

Hammer Time

Jewelry designer Rhonda Faber Green is launching her first men’s jewelry collection this month at the Couture show. The new “Verde” men’s collection of rings, necklaces, cuff links, and lapel pins, inspired by her popular women’s collection, is edgy in style with Maltese crosses, fleur de lis, and chunky yellow, white, and rose gold settings with black and white diamonds. Black spinel and a variety of colored sapphires are also available. The 18k white gold and sterling silver collection features hand-hammered, sand-papered finishes and millegrain.

Sterling silver and black spinel skull ring, and sterling silver Maltese cross ring with black and white diamonds, suggested retail $990 and $610, by Rhonda Faber Green, (310) 858-8688.

Sterling silver and diamond earrings

Silver Linings

Armadani has created a niche for its bridal jewelry, specializing in 18k gold, platinum, diamond, and gemstone eternity bands, but the brand is taking a turn at another jewelry category: opening price point fashion. Premiering is an entry level price point collection consisting of sterling silver with diamonds and gems. Suggested retails are a surprisingly affordable $100 to $600. Described as a look that combines “Tiffany-like simplicity and Italian-style dimension,” the line is created in high-polished silver that, when set with diamonds, looks very much like white gold. The collection includes a stainless steel and diamond watch line featuring mostly women’s styles with 0.25 to 1 carat total weight diamonds. Suggested retails range from $295 to $1,000, and it is one of the few fine jewelry watch lines to offer 65 percent margins.

Sterling silver and diamond earrings from Armadani, (877) 883-2525.