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Trends from Brazil: Couture Cuts

No longer satisfied with designing jewelry to fit the standard gem shapes, designers in Brazil are going one step further, designing the gemstones too. Collections set with these couture cuts have a distinctive look and a new integration between gem and setting. With a new naturalism a strong trend, designers are creating gems with texture, irregular outlines, and organic shapes. For example, Vianna built a new collection around the new amoeba-like "Amorphous" cut, echoing its unusual outline in links.

These new gem shapes also allow for striking originality. At the recent Feninjer show in Brazil, Manoel Bernardes alone introduced four new gemstone cuts, including gemstones cut into links, gems with elegantly tilted tables, and a large gemstone that has several tables so it looks like several gems. "These different cuts allow for more design innovation," says Bernardes. "With this cutting strategy, our jewelry is really different."

Other innovators who offer unusual gem shapes include Brüner, Denoir, F.R. Hueb, and Vancox. The sense of uniqueness conferred by custom cut gems is very appealing to women who want to feel that their jewelry is as individual as their style.

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bracelet by Vianna
"Amorphous" shaped gems and links in elegant shades of brown and gold quartz in a bracelet by Vianna, (55) (31) 3434-9000.