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Refined Organics: Trend of the New Season
Jewelry Scene


The year's new jewelry trends, launched a month ago at the four shows in Las Vegas—JCK and Couture and their satellites Luxury and Signature Salons—were evolutionary in two ways. First, they were a gradual change from the styles seen earlier in the year. But, more importantly, they are also evolutionary in that a new abstract naturalism is emerging as the prevailing aesthetic.

The trend of the season is refined organics: natural and botanical shapes and forms that have been made luxurious through jewelry-making techniques. Most styles retain their organic origins and have the feel of handwork with irregular or baroque shapes and texturing such as hammering, crumpling, and crushing. Many naturalistic looks are now made with the most precious metals and gems. Themes and design elements pay tribute to the natural world: roses, orchids, lilies and other exotic florals, branches and leaves, birds and butterflies, and even antlers, horns, and bones.

Baby boomers are paring down and making their lives less complicated—a return to simpler pleasures. Refined organics are the perfect expression of this trend: they are rustic yet elegant.

Although movement is still very important, the bohemian elements that have pervaded jewelry for the last two years are disappearing. Proportions have also changed. Chandelier and stiletto earrings are gone, replaced by shorter pendant and link earrings or, more often than not, hoops.

Nonetheless, focus remains on the neck. Layering continues as necklaces are long, worn in one luxurious stretch, or wrapped several times. Links are very important again and long station necklaces as well as long pearl strands are everywhere.

Medallions and other pendants are still a focus of attention. So, too, are shorter necklaces that mimic the look of wrapped and layered necklaces, often combining chain, links or even beads in one or two long necklaces which can be wrapped.

At the wrist, it's a sculptural cuff or bangles. The new Frank Gehry collection for Tiffany, for example, uses carved agate to create an asymmetrical cuff that epitomizes the combination of sculpture and nature at the heart of this trend.

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Melo pearl ring by K. Brunini Jewels
Melo pearl ring from the new “Objects Organique” collection by K. Brunini Jewels, (858) 259-8779.
Cocoon 18k gold pendant earrings by Erich Zimmermann
Cocoon 18k gold pendant earrings by Erich Zimmermann of Germany, (49) (821) 515195.
Antler earrings by Antonio Bernardo
Antler earrings by Antonio Bernardo of Brazil, (55) (21) 2540-7470.