THE TREND: When you have botanists developing strains of chocolate brown blooms on flowering plants, it’s a sign that brown diamonds have earned a permanent place in the palette of fine jewelry. Designers today are proving that brown diamonds are as versatile as traditional white diamonds.
WHO’S DOING IT: From fancy colors to cognacs to pale champagnes, these trendy tones are being set in all of the three colors of gold, platinum, and sterling silver. This trend started with high-end designers, but has now spread to the market in general. On the high end, look for rich brown diamonds in 18k rose gold, 22k yellow gold, platinum, and blackened gold. More affordable designs are using brown and paler champagne diamonds in 14k yellow gold with touches of blackened gold and silver. Silver designs, many with leather, also flaunt diamonds in warmer brown tones to add a touch of richness. In addition to the designers shown here, look for styles from H. Stern, Le Vian, Mattioli, Antonini, Yossi Harari, Sevan, Arunashi, Kamofie, Pedro Boregaard, Carolina, Ecclissi, Philip Wolman, and Color Craft.
WHY IT’S HAPPENING: Brown diamonds are proving appropriate to a range of lifestyles and design genres from everyday casual looks to haute styles. The organic influence is very important in design today and brown diamonds are the most glamorous way to add an earthy touch. Global diamond miner Rio Tinto is launching a marketing effort to revive the market for champagne diamonds, striking while the iron is hot. The Natural Color Diamond Association is creating marketing materials to help jewelers sell brown diamonds as well as all the other colors.
WHO’S WEARING IT: Jennifer Lopez, Halle Berry, Cameron Diaz, Jennifer Love Hewitt, and Oscar winner Marion Cotillard are just a few of the stars wearing brown diamonds on the red carpet.
HOW TO SELL IT: Brown diamonds combine brilliance with the richness of color. These warm tones are very flattering on the skin. Brunettes will especially love the way they complement their hair. Most brown diamonds come from the Argyle mine in Australia, which has begun mining underground this year so production has dropped, making browns more rare and valuable. The mine will close in 2018, leaving future supply in doubt so now is a good time to invest in these natural treasures. It’s important to remember that although jewelers look at brown shades and think “affordable,” customers think “warm,” “exotic,” and “luxurious.” Make sure you romance these seductive tones with descriptive terms like “chocolate,” “velvety,” “sable,” “truffle,” and “mink” as well as the classic intoxicating “cognac,” “whiskey,” and “champagne.” Brown diamonds have all the prestige of fancy colored diamonds but you don’t have to be J. Lo to afford your own.
From left: Diatraco Corp.’s three-stone brown and white diamond, platinum, and 18k gold ring, (212) 221-1350.
Carla Amorim’s “Kir Royale” bull’s eye ring with brown diamonds in 18k rose gold, (773) 327-5874.
Paula Crevoshay’s 20.60 carat brown zircon set in an 18k yellow gold ring with brown diamonds, suggested retail $10,600, (505) 898-2888.
From top: Valente’s 18k rose gold ring with brown and white diamonds, and pink sapphire accents, suggested retail $11,330, (305) 534-1974.
Le Vian’s 14k gold and brown diamond heart ring, (516) 466-7200.
Roberto Coin’s brown diamond flexible ring, (212) 486-0111.
Interjewel’s Gothic architecture inspired champagne and white diamond earrings, (212) 869-7801.
Jessica Fields’ 18k yellow gold clover necklace with champagne diamonds and beaded pearl chain, suggested retail $7,900, (800) 231-6504.
Roberto Coin’s 18k yellow gold ring with brown diamond and enamel details, (212) 486-0111.
Belle Brooke Designs’ oxidized sterling silver cuff with brown diamonds, (213) 488-9470.
From top: Roberto Coin’s 18k gold and brown diamond bangle, (212) 486-0111.
Manak Couture’s 18k gold, brown diamond, and champagne diamond bracelets, (415) 255-4768.
Staurino’s 18k gold and brown and white diamond pendant with detachable bow brooch detail, suggested retail $39,475, (305) 534-1974.
From top: Diatraco Corp.’s 11.80 carat brown diamond and platinum pendant, (212) 221-1350.
Michael Werdiger’s fancy brown, white diamond, and platinum necklace, (212) 869-5160.