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Buyer's Choice: Men's Jewelry
Buyer's Choice


As the men’s business matures, jewelers are expanding their offerings, experimenting with designer brands, contemporary metals, and more fashion-forward styling. Today’s man is more confident and expressive in his choice of jewelry. Younger men in particular are more open to edgy looks.

Trends in the market include black metals and stones, unusual materials from titanium to fossils, and rose gold, driven by its strength in the high-end watch business. Cuff links remain strong, followed by bracelets, rings, and necklaces, especially dog tags.


Dinosaur bone cuff links in 18k gold
Dinosaur bone cuff links in 18k gold by Nathan Tim, (888) 675-2367.
ring in sterling silver and black onyx
“Rock Star” ring in sterling silver and black onyx by Stephen Webster, (212) 226-6160.
Black titanium jewelry with diamonds

Contemporary Metals
“We’ve noticed a big interest in contemporary metals, such as titanium, black titanium, tungsten carbide, and carbon fiber. Twenty-somethings come in and ask for them. They’ll go on-line and Google ‘rings’ and these metals will come up. Because the contemporary metals are much more affordable, they can buy wider rings, 7 to 9mm versus the usual 6mm you see in gold rings. We sell a lot of men’s jewelry from Edward Mirell and are looking forward to their introduction of a new material for men’s wedding bands. It’s a patented blend of cobalt and chromium.”
— Ron Yates, Yates & Company Jewelers, Modesto, California

Black titanium jewelry with diamonds by Edward Mirell, (954) 481-8422.

Sterling silver horse with jockey cuff links

Cool Cuffs
“We’ve been seeing a lot of black color and materials, ranging from rubber to titanium. Since we consider watches as a part of men’s jewelry, we’re also seeing pieces with colored titanium. Where did the rubber come from? We think from watches with rubber straps, some of them costing $100,000 and more. The rubber can be hard or soft, and mixed with different metals. The biggest men’s jewelry sellers are bracelets and cuff links. Many men are buying cool, hip cuff links that aren’t at all traditional. These cuff links have different colored stones, including pink sapphires or moonstones, and non-traditional shapes, like animals.”
— Mark Levinson, Levinson Jewelers, Plantation, Florida

Sterling silver horse with jockey cuff links by Robin Rotenier, suggested retail $235, (212) 768-1117.

Black woven leather and sterling silver bracelets

Textured Interest
“Men’s jewelry is all about texture, elements, and interest. Exotic stones combined with metals, as David Yurman does with sterling silver, pietersite, and tiger iron makes a great earthy statement that feels natural and not too shiny for men. John Hardy’s woven leather and sterling silver bracelets with textured finishes give a rustic and rugged look. We are still seeing traditional jewelry as our best sellers: cuff links, chains, rings, and bracelets. The pieces that are the most appealing are those that look a bit different. Even if he is buying plain gold cuff links, he might be more inclined to choose a pair with brushed gold or a handmade hammered look that adds visual interest.”
— Rebecca Garnick, Long’s Jewelers, Boston

Black woven leather and sterling silver bracelets by John Hardy, (212) 219-4288.

Black diamond dog tags

Young and Edgy
“We are doing very well with David Yurman and John Hardy this year. We have put a lot of extra money in those designers. We are also carrying Dolan-Bullock stainless steel and sterling silver money clips, key rings, bracelets, and cuff links. We do carry gold cuff links and stud sets. We are noticing more young men wearing jewelry. They especially like the dog tags from Yurman and Hardy. We have also done very well with the bead necklaces and bracelets in hematite, onyx, lapis, and coral from Yurman. For a different more edgy look we bought Stephen Webster’s new men’s silver line.”
— Laurie Harris, Tapper’s, West Bloomfield, Michigan

Black diamond dog tags by David Yurman, (212) 896-1550.

octagon ring in 18k gold with 0.10 carat diamond

Design Energy
“Cuff links are extremely big now. They’re very much in demand. Designs vary, but buyers are inclined to buy more pairs and be more experimental at $300 and under. The segment is growing, it’s going way beyond the traditional watch and a band. Now it includes rings and bracelets that show a real design sense. Two-toned bracelets, made of silver and gold or two colors of gold with diamond accents, are not your typical link bracelets. We sell McKinney’s ‘Victory’ line and a large percentage of his men’s line. I like his design style, techniques, thinking, and energy. He understands what men enjoy and what they need when it comes to jewelry.”
— Nael Ali, Prima Fine Jewelry & Art, Albuquerque, New Mexico

“Victory” octagon ring in 18k gold with 0.10 carat diamond by McKinney, suggested retail $1,850, (525) 994-4934. “Victory” collection cuff bracelet in 18k gold with 0.25 carat diamond by McKinney, suggested retail $7,000, (525) 994-4934.

Cuff links with raw diamond cubes and brilliant cut diamonds and a Triple eternity band with raw diamond cubes and brilliant cut diamonds

Sleek and Rough
“We just designed a small line of our own men’s jewelry because we believe in the market. Our collection has some black diamond rough rings with hammered white gold and Morse code rings with black diamonds. We do those for wedding bands, either using granulation or diamonds to spell out ‘I Do,’ initials, or whatever customers want. Younger men gravitate toward titanium, the sleekness of it. When couples come in and the guys see a whole showcase of men’s jewelry, mostly rings, they realize that it’s stylish. We also just started carrying Todd Reed. We’ve been doing rough diamonds for years and I really love his collection.”
— Evans Siskel, DVVS, New York

Cuff links with raw diamond cubes and brilliant cut diamonds by Todd Reed, suggested retail $3,750, (303) 442-6280.
Triple eternity band with raw diamond cubes and brilliant cut diamonds by Todd Reed, suggested retail $6,785, (303) 442-6280.