Arts and Crafts, Vienna Style
The philosophy of the turn of the twentieth century Arts and Crafts movement feels relevant again today: that design and craftsmanship make jewelry exceptional rather than the value of the metal and gems.
From 1903 to the early 1920s, the Wiener Werkstätte firm in Vienna created masterpieces of art jewelry. The firm, whose name means Vienna Workshops, subscribed to the Arts and Crafts ideal of well-made objects designed by artists and made by skilled craftsmen.
The first exhibition devoted to Wiener Werkstätte Jewelry, now open at the Neue Galerie on Fifth Avenue in New York, includes 40 pieces, many made by Josef Hoffmann and Koloman Moser, founders of the firm. Hoffmann’s brooches, square grids filled with colorful cabochon gemstones like the one shown below, are a particular delight. Wiener Werkstätte Jewelry is open until June 30, 2008. By happy coincidence, the Neue Galerie is also hosting a show of Gustav Klimt paintings and drawings: Klimt was a collector of Wiener Werkstatte Jewelry too.
While reflecting turn of the century philosophy, the jewelry also has resonance for designers today, who are using more unusual material like agates and what used to be called “semi-precious” and ornamental gemstones. Hoffmann’s rigorous geometry, hammered textures, and the nature-inspired leaves and branches of the moonstone bracelet by Carl Otto Czeschka below, wouldn’t be out of place at a booth at the Couture show today.
The exhibit, originally scheduled to close on June 30, has been extended through September 1, 2008.
That’s great to see that these stones are appreciated. I’m using semiprecious stones, like agates, jaspers and all sorts of quartzes myself as well. Wrapped in sterling silver, these stones look quite cool actually.
Looks like a beautiful collection…good to see other stones getting their spot in the limelight.
I was given the sketch of this bracelet done by the artist.Could you please tell me anything you know about it and its artist?
I just love Art Nouveau jewelry! I recently met a San Francisco jewelry designer that uses very non-traditional elements in his work (which is
inspired by the various neighborhoods in the surrounding San Francisco Bay Area).
Wearable Art Jewelry by John S. Brana